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Food Picks: Pizzas with big flavours, comfort late-night eats, and lardy noodles

After a rocking 12-course meal at chef Bjorn Shen's new four-seat micro restaurant, we kick around some ways to describe what we just had. Doughmakase is my contribution. My colleague Eunice Quek has a better one – doughgustation.

Small's, which occupies a pocket-sized space at Shen's restaurant, Artichoke, celebrates dough. He ferments it at least four days, then works it into gutsy, robust dishes and pizza. He cooks and tells stories through the meal, which you eat in a very confined space.

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